Vevey, Switzerland
Vevey is an ancient town in Switzerland, nestled right by Lake Geneva and surrounded by steep mountains rising up from the water. People have lived in Vevey since ancient Roman times, when it was known as Viviscus, and even earlier, with traces of Celtic settlements. Nestlé, one of the world’s largest food companies, was founded here and still has its headquarters in Vevey. Milk chocolate was invented in Vevey in 1875. Famous residents include Charlie Chaplin, who lived in Vevey for the last 25 years of his life. The Swiss Riviera includes Vevey and its neighbor Montreux, which is home to the world famous jazz festival.
Plane & Train
Wed, Sept 3
After parting ways with Carie & Scott, we flew from Brussels to Geneva. It was a quick 60 minute flight and the views on approach were spectacular. Snow-capped jagged peaks from the French and Swiss Alps were on full display. Sadly, we had center and isle seats. The train ride to Vevey was only another hour and the views along Lake Geneva were also lovely. Sadly, we were on the wrong side of the train.
Our Airbnb is just steps away from Lake Geneva, with plenty of restaurants and shops close by. We took a relaxing walk along the shore and tried a couple of places for dinner before heading back for the night.
Rochers de Naye
Thurs, Sept 4
The Rochers de Naye is a 6,699 ft peak in the Swiss Alps that rises above Lake Geneva near the towns of Montreux and Villeneuve. We took the train from Vevey to Montreux, then boarded the cog railway up to the summit at Rochers de Naye. It just goes up, up, up, straight up the mountain, with just a small cog track in the middle.
It stops at several tiny stations, many locals exited. Crazy that is their daily commute. After about an hour, we reached the summit at Rochers de Naye. The views are spectacular. Lake Geneva below, with Montreux along the shore. The French Alps in the background, across the lake.
We ate at bite at the restaurant, (really good food!), then took a short hike along the summit.
Again, the views are spectacular in every directions. It was super windy and chilly but not freezing.
The trip down was equally impressive. We really enjoyed the adventure.
Next: Chillon Castle
Back in Montreux, we took the train to the wrong stop, backtracked, walked 30 minutes and eventually ended up at Chillon Castle. Our second medieval castle of the trip.
Originating in the 10th century, the castle was positioned for its strategic location for controlling trade and served as a residence, fortress, prison, and toll station under successive rulers including the Counts of Savoy, the Bernese, and the Canton of Vaud. Its dungeons inspired Lord Byron’s famous poem “The Prisoner of Chillon”.
A massive thunderstorm rolled in while we were inside, which added to the ambiance.
Ended up calling an Uber to get back to the room, but while waiting at the entrance for our driver, the Chairman of the Board of Nestlé, Paul Bulcke, arrived with his wife for an event in the castle. He spoke to Kelley in french. :)
Our dinner at Au Cep d'Or may have been the best of the trip, so far.
Gruyère
Friday, Sept 5
Train to Gruyère
In Vevey, started the day with the most expensive Starbucks ever. $42USD for two coffees, a bottle of water and two pastries! But enjoyed it walking along Lake Geneva.
Then took a train to Gruyère. We were a bit confused about where to go when we got off at the station, and it was drizzling rain, so we walked across the street to the cheese factory for a tour. It was really interesting!
After that, the sun was out(!) so we took the short 15 minute walk into the town of Gruyère. So cute!
We also toured the Castle of Gruyères. The castle was built between 1270 and 1282 in the distinctive square plan of Savoy fortifications. It belonged to the Counts of Gruyères until Count Michel's bankruptcy in 1554, at which point Fribourg and Bern divided his lands. From 1555 to 1798, the castle housed bailiffs and later prefects sent by Fribourg. In 1849, it was sold to the Bovy and Balland families, who restored it and founded an artists' colony.
For lunch, we had the BEST FONDUE we're ever eaten. Plus... the view was wonderful.
After returning to Montreux, we walked along the lake and came across the Freddie Mercury statue plus a concert with a tribute band. Really good!
Pano Train to Grindlewald
Sat, Sept 6
Leaving Vevey brought a bit of sadness. There is something special about its old-school charm and genuine friendliness, making it (probably) our favorite stop so far. Before departing, we revisited the spot with the best flat whites and spent a couple of hours strolling and sitting by the lake.
Later, we took the train from Vevey to Montreux and then boarded the panoramic express to Grindelwald. At first, we thought our reserved seats were unnecessary, since the train was not full at first. That later changed and it was packed by the end. For the best vistas on the northbound route, the right side of the train offers sweeping, wide-open mountain views, while the left side features more glimpses of buildings and fields. Both sides are worth experiencing. It is fine to bring snacks or drinks along, but they also offer for sale. 5G cell service is great for most of the journey. In fact, there has been nonstop cell service everywhere we've been.
In September, the landscape was lush and green. Steep mountains alternate with valleys filled with scenic houses and green fields. We passed through towns with classic churches, and trails with hikers and bikers. The tracks occasionally run along winding roads, silty rivers, and pass by covered bridges. There are curvy roads perfect for motorcycles and in places, the drop to the valley below looked thousands of feet straight down. Stone bridges arched gracefully and we saw soaring hawks and new peaks of granite revealed every 15 minutes. We traveled in and out of beautiful valleys the entire way.
Gstaad stands out as a particularly scenic town (at least while passing through), and the train switches to a narrow track in Zweisimmen, a pretty village that would make for a pleasant day trip. As we approached Interlaken, the left side of the train gave the best views of the lake and distant mountains. Interlaken West felt more industrial, but Ost was brighter and had the atmosphere of a hub for journeys into the mountains.
Next Stop: Grindlewald
Ronnie