South Africa Safari
Saturday, March 23rd
Woke up in Paris, had slept a little better after taking half a melatonin. We walked to a café for an American breakfast, then made our way to Notre Dame Cathedral where we read about the restoration project. We stopped for cappuccinos on a street corner in the Left Bank.
Later, we picked up our bags from storage, took the RER, and boarded our Kenya Airlines overnight flight to Nairobi. Again, we couldn’t sleep, but the food was good, especially the chicken and breakfast. We waited in chairs at the Nairobi airport until 5 AM, then flew to Johannesburg.
Sunday, March 24th
We took the hotel shuttle to the Premier Hotel, which was beautiful and had an outdoor patio with a fountain. We ordered drinks and a late lunch, although the service was slow. After a one-hour nap, we went out for dinner. I had the best vegetable soup I’ve ever tasted and chicken pasta that only cost $5 USD.
Monday, March 25th
We slept wonderfully in that bed. Ronnie woke up feeling off and worried he might have Covid, but his temperature was normal so we hoped it was just allergies. The hotel’s breakfast buffet was fantastic and only cost $10 per person. After eating, we went to the airport to meet our Sabatana group. There were 20 people in total, mostly Americans plus two Canadians. We drove about three hours to the reserve, stopping for lunch at a beautiful spot under shady trees where we toasted with champagne.
We arrived at Rhino Lodge to perfect weather. We had snacks while the staff brought our luggage to our room, number 31. On our patio, we poured a glass of wine and enjoyed the sunset. That evening, there was a meeting at the Boma, an outdoor enclosure with a fireplace. Johan, the lodge director, gave us details about the staff, the grounds, and our schedule. Afterwards, we enjoyed some Bailey’s and red wine from a local vineyard.
Dinner was served at a long table so we could get to know one another. They served kudu, but I chose the fish and it was delicious. Our room was huge, with a thatched roof and wonderful air conditioning. We slept very well.
Tuesday, March 26th
We had coffee in the room before heading to the breakfast buffet, which was excellent. Guides Putti and Tembo took us to an open hut where Putti gave a detailed talk about the programs. Tembo spoke about the geography and resources of South Africa. We decided to sign up for extra safaris so we could really make the most of our time.
After lunch, we took a short nap and then went out for our first afternoon safari, a highlight of the trip. We traveled in an open-air Range Rover with Tembo driving. We saw impalas with babies, giraffes, wildebeests, warthogs with babies, blesbok, kudu, ostriches, and a lake with crocodiles and their young. Tembo was incredibly knowledgeable about the animals and the local ecology.
The weather was ideal, though it got a bit chilly at sunset. We eventually got used to seeing impalas everywhere, but the giraffes were still breathtaking. Tembo shared that some locals kill giraffes for their tails, which witchdoctors use in various ways. He also explained that the Dutch once hunted blesbok just for sport, without eating the meat, which nearly made them extinct. We learned that male crocodiles may eat the babies if the female doesn’t protect them. Staff also warned us to keep our rooms closed so baboons and monkeys wouldn’t get in, though we never saw any.
That evening, we enjoyed happy hour mojitos and compared animal sightings with the other guests. Dinner was delicious again, and we went to bed early in preparation for a 5:30 AM start. That night, a vine snake, one of the most venomous kinds, was found on the path. We were told that a bite could cause you to bleed from your eyes. Lovely.
Wednesday, March 27th
We woke up at the brutal hour of 5:30 AM after sleeping poorly. Staff came to get us because we hadn’t shown up for breakfast, but we told them we don’t usually eat much that early. We grabbed a pastry and a couple of sips of cappuccino before heading out.
Our group was led by Putti, and most of the group was a family from Colorado celebrating a birthday together. They were very chatty but fun. We took a van to Weldahoven Reserve, which was near ours, then switched to a jeep for the safari. That day we saw rhinos, warthogs with their babies, hippos, a jackal, and water buffalo. There were so many zebras everywhere too.
The air was chilly during the fast jeep rides, especially as we climbed in elevation, and I was glad I had dressed in layers and brought a hat. When we got back, we had a huge lunch and then relaxed in the pool area where the WiFi was best. I replied to messages and sent photos before taking a short rest.
That evening we headed out on a night safari. We had big spotlights, but not many animals were out. Most seemed either bedded down or cautious about our lights. We stopped at a boma, followed the torchlight to a small camp, and enjoyed a dinner grilled by a female chef. The meal started with sweet potato soup and was followed by chicken and sausage, then an incredible South African dessert similar to bread pudding with a rich sauce.
After dinner we did more night driving, spotting a few impalas and zebras before getting back around 10:30 PM. We went straight to bed since we were exhausted from such an early start.
Thursday, March 28th
We opted out of the morning nature walk and slept in a little, which was badly needed. Breakfast was big and leisurely. Later, we joined four other guests for a three-mile bush walk. It was already hot by the time we set out, and we hardly saw any animals, but it was fun to be outside and moving.
After lunch, we visited a small wildlife museum that had many taxidermied local animals and was actually quite interesting. When we got back, I was soaking my feet at the edge of the pool when a few people asked for my help tending to a girl who had hurt herself. She turned out to be an 18-year-old British girl who had scraped her arm falling near the pool, probably after drinking. Everyone laughed when I called it a simple cut, but she let me patch her up anyway and bought me a drink as thanks.
The poolside became my main WiFi spot, so I stayed there a bit longer to catch up on messages and send more photos.
That evening we walked down the street to another boma, where we had to be formally invited in. A young boy holding a pretend bow and arrows played gatekeeper. As tradition dictates, the men in our group entered first. We were served wine and sat around a fire while learning about African culture. Dinner was a traditional meal of beans, a polenta-like food, and spinach, all eaten with our fingers. It was a bit challenging but also fun.
After dinner, a group of about 20 children, from junior high to high school, came out in traditional dress. They played drums, sang, and danced around the fire. They were incredibly talented, and we were mesmerized. At the end, they pulled some of us into the dancing. It was my favorite evening of the trip so far.
Friday, March 29th
We had a very early start at 5 AM for the drive to Pilanesberg Park, about three hours away. It was worth every minute. I finally saw the elephants I had been hoping for. A whole herd walked right behind us, single file, with several babies and one huge bull.
We also saw an elephant that had made the news recently for lifting a safari bus. Luckily, he was calm with us. We spotted three lionesses under a bush, lounging in the sun. While we watched, two wildebeests wandered toward them. Wildebeests don’t have great vision, and when they suddenly noticed the lions, they bolted in panic. One lioness got up to stalk them, and for a moment I feared we’d see a kill, but she gave up and lay back down.
The rest of the day’s sightings included hippos, giraffes, rhinos, impalas, and zebras. Our female guide was excellent, full of knowledge, and made the day even better. As we left, we bought souvenirs from locals, happy to support them since the surrounding area looked quite poor.
Saturday, March 30th
We slept a little later, until 6:15 AM. That morning we went on a photo safari in the reserve, followed by a hat-making challenge. We were told to build a hat from natural materials. Our guide, Putti, clearly had an idea in mind and ignored our suggestions until we reached an area with long grasses. We braided them into what turned out to be a very sad hat. The other group made a nicer crown-style hat.
Next, we had to create a song to go with our hat. I suggested “Hakuna Matata” from The Lion King, and we practiced three times, complete with someone pretending to faint in one part. It became a contest between our group and the other.
We were driven to a beautiful lookout where zebras and wildebeests were gathered around a pond. We were served champagne, then each group performed their song and displayed their hat. Ours was cute, but judging was mostly on the hats, and ours was pretty awful. The other group’s was tall, decorated with sticks and flowers, and paired with a fun poem. They won the prize, which was free wine at dinner, but everyone had fun.
A wonderful brunch followed at the overlook. We skipped the afternoon drive and wildlife deck so we could rest. Just before dinner, we caught 50% off happy hour and enjoyed a couple of mojitos. Dinner was by a fire in the boma. We sat with a nice couple named Marilyn and Whitty from Colorado. Unfortunately, the smoke bothered my sinuses, so I took a Benadryl before bed.
Sunday, March 31st
Our last day at the lodge started at 5:30 AM. We headed to the nearby Kaingo Reserve and saw plenty of animals, though none we hadn’t already spotted. After lunch, we had one more evening photo safari. At a remote spot, they served champagne as we watched the sunset.
They then had us play a game where everyone tried to spot a “patty” the farthest away. Most thought it meant fur or something similar. It turned out “patty” meant kudu poop, which made everyone laugh. Jerry, an Irishman in our group, won and even got an award.
Dinner that night was a little emotional. The kitchen staff sang for us, and there was a mock wedding between our guide, Putti, and Gretchen, one of the older women in the group. They used it as a metaphor for a marriage between America and South Africa, and I actually got teary. We toasted to each other and took lots of group photos. By that point, I didn’t expect to have gotten so attached to some of our fellow travelers. We even invited a few to come visit us in Boise.
Monday, April 1st
We packed up, settled our bill, and gave tips to the staff before leaving at 9 AM. The drive back to Johannesburg took longer than normal because it was the day after Easter. Along the way, we visited the Voortrekker Monument and had a guided tour. The history matched much of what I had been reading in “The Covenant,” which made it even more interesting.
We said our goodbyes at the airport and were dropped off at our hotel, Emperors Palace. The place was spectacular, and we felt like VIPs walking through it. That night, we had an incredible dinner of salmon, salad, wine, and dessert for about 65 euros. The salmon was the best we had ever tasted, so good that the chef came out to meet us. The bed was very comfortable, and it was a treat to sleep in the next morning.
Tuesday, April 2nd
We had another superb breakfast at the same hotel restaurant, but this time we sat out on the terrace because the weather was perfect. I treated myself to a 1.5-hour massage with special ointments, and with gratuity it came to about $100.
We relaxed by the fountain and pool area until it was time to head to the airport. The flight that day was rough again. We flew through Nairobi and couldn’t sleep on the next leg to Paris, even after I took a Benadryl. At least we had three seats to ourselves, so we could stretch out more.
Ronnie