Lake Como
Lake Como is pretty big... about 29 miles long and more than 1,350 feet deep. The lake sits in northern Italy, just below the Alps, with lots of small towns hugging its shoreline. Bellagio is right at the middle where the two arms of the lake meet, so it’s easy to use as a base for day trips by ferry.
Arrived Lake Como
Monday, Sept 8
Same country, third language.
In Vevey, French is the main language spoken. Once in Grindelwald, German is what you hear everywhere. Heading south from Zurich towards Lucerne and beyond, Italian takes over. Switzerland has defined language regions, so traveling across the country means the language around you shifts pretty noticeably. New menus and new signage to figure out.
We arrived in Lake Como by train late afternoon after a long eight-hour trip from Grindelwald. It was another pretty trip. The area south of Zurich along the lake was very nice. Deep mountain lakes with mountains rising straight up on both sides. Zug and Sisikon areas were also beautiful.
We were pretty wiped out and when we tried to book the next ferry to Bellagio for 5:10 pm, it was already full. The only option left was the 6:40 hydrofoil, which takes about 45 minutes. This was a bit stressful since our guest house only had staff until 7 pm, so we had to pay the clerk an hourly rate to wait for us, 25 euros. While we waited, we found a nearby restaurant to grab some dinner and recharge.
The ferry was full again, packed in pretty tight. We made a few stops before arriving in town. The hotel had arranged for a taxi to pick us up, because the walk from the terminal was about 30 minutes, up a steep hill. Another 25€ 😦.
Our place here is really cute. It has only six or eight rooms, all managed by one woman who handles everything from check-in to cooking and serving the breakfast buffet, as well as cleaning the rooms. There’s a lovely patio and a big lawn that looks out over the lake and mountains.
Exploring Bellagio
Tues, Sept 9
The day started with sprinkling rain, but mid-morning we walked down to town. We wandered through a maze of alleys filled with cute shops and restaurants, many tucked up narrow stone staircases. The main streets were crowded with tourists, but it was easy enough to slip into quieter side lanes. We had a lovely lunch by the water, then found a small shop where we bought a silk scarf made locally and a dainty necklace. Later in the afternoon we sat down for coffee and people watching, which is always entertaining here. Many visitors take the ferry for day trips to the other towns along the lake, and tomorrow we’re planning to do the same.
Bellagio is often called the “pearl of Lake Como.” The historic town center, known as Il Borgo, is a winding maze of cobbled lanes and staircases like Salita Serbelloni, packed with boutiques, artisan shops, and cafés. The Romanesque Basilica di San Giacomo, built in the 11th–12th centuries, sits at the heart of the village.
Late afternoon, finished up our five mile loop and rested in the garden until dinner. Very relaxing.
For dinner, we walked back into town, did some laundry, had some wine and enjoyed a wonderful dinner. Maybe the best of the trip, so far? 😄
Great, relaxing day! Looking forward to tomorrow.
Menaggio & Varenna
Wed, Sept 10
Visited Menaggio and Varenna today. It’s about 20 minutes by ferry to either town, though there’s usually a bit of a wait to board. The day pass (€15) is the most economical option for getting around.
Menaggio
We started in Menaggio, since most online guides recommend it as the main destination between the two. But we actually preferred Varenna, there’s more to see and do, and it’s prettier.
In Menaggio, we walked the lakeside promenade. It’s beautifully maintained and lined with grand old hotels (many go for over $1000 a night) around the harbor. Though a few shops were closed for the season, most were still open. We had a great lunch and some gelato that was ok, though not amazing.
Varenna
Varenna felt a lot like Bellagio, with its steep stone stairs and lively atmosphere, but it wasn’t too crowded today. There are more restaurants, better views, and plenty to explore.
We toured the Villa Monastero house and gardens while in Varenna. It was interesting, but not quite as memorable as some of the other places we’ve visited on this trip. The villa has passed through several wealthy families over the years, but there’s no dark history. No scandal, no torture dungeon. 😄
Then had an expensive drink at the Hotel Du Lac before heading back to Bellagio. So-so smaller dinner at Nando's before making the long trek back up the hill to our place. 17k steps today.
Headed to Venice
Tues, Sept 11
Up earlier on Thursday, had to walk all the way from our hotel down to the ticket office to beat the crowd and buy ferry tickets (45 minute round trip). They usually sell out. The streets are mostly empty at 8am. Taking a train from Como Lago to Milan to Venice S.L.
Next Stop...
Ronnie